Orchha's grandeur has been captured in stone, frozen in time, a rich legacy to the ages. The word Orchha means hidden. In this medieval city, the hands of time have rested lightly and the palaces and temples built by its Bundela rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries retain much of their pristine perfection.

In the heart of Bundelkhand lies this fortified group of dwellings, temples and shrines bearing testimony to the medieval legacy in stone . The central feature of the village is Jehangir Mahal , a 17th

century classic, that combines the ruler Bir Singh Deo’s eye for detail with sweeping views from its turrets. On two other side lies the Raj Mahal, built by the ascetic Madhukar Shah and Praveen Rai Mahal built for the beautiful companion of Raja Inder Mani. But for sheer contrast, there is little to equal the 14 elegant chhatris that line the banks of the river in the distance. Best seen from the bridge connecting the massive midstream island, the image of the chhatris lingers long after the visit. And not far off, the imposing Lakshmi Narayan, Chaturbhuj and Ram Raj temples strengthen the Bundeli spirit in a profusion of ornamental paintings.

Having seen the monuments, you must head for the river. A cataract near the bridge with gentle, rounded rocks is the ideal place to stop a while and savour the soothing flow of the Betwa. The reverie must end well before the sun goes down. For there is also the lure of the forest waiting to be explored. The road from the bridge goes right through the dense growth. Feel the pulse of the wilderness just there, only a few minutes’ drive from Orchha, as the road winds on to the second bridge on the other side of the island. Back in the village, join the procession headed for the temples. While at dusk, or if the moon is full, a walk near the water’s edge will revive the memory of the Bundela chiefs treading beside the silhouette of their imposing constructions.

It was Raja Bir Singh Ju Deo who built the exquisite Jehangir Mahal in honour of emperor Jehangir, when Jehangir visited Orchha. A tiered palace crowned by graceful chhatris, from here the view of soaring temple spires and cenotaphs is spectacular.

Built by the deeply religious Madhukar Shah, it is situated to the right of the quadrangle. In Raj Mahal a trail through the maze of intricate stairways leading to numerous turrets is an experience in itself, evoking nostalgia of the thrilling lifestyle of the royals. The interiors have exquisite colourful murals, on a variety of religious themes. From the turrets, one is treated to a breathtaking view of Jahangir Mahal on the east and the Chaturbhuj temple on the west.

This palace turned temple with its soaring spires and palatial architecture is one of the most unusual in India. The legend goes that the statue of Ram, brought from Ayodhya was temporarily installed here while a temple for it was being built. Later on, it was impossible to move the statue to the new location. It is the only temple in the country where Ram is worshipped as a Raja (king), probably because the statue of the god is in a palace.

This temple was specially constructed to enshrine the image of Ram that remained in the Ram Raja Temple. Lotus emblems and other symbols of religious significance provide the delicate exterior ornamentation. Within, the sanctum is chastely plain with high and its vaulted walls emphasise its deep sanctity.